JANUARY

PLANTING- Planting bare-root plants in winter is common throughout most of the US. They are so called because they are sold "bare," without soil around their roots. This is possible because the plants are dormant. Because they are easier and less expensive to handle, they cost less than container plants. The bare-root season in Tucson's desert climate doesn't last long, so don't hesitate when bare-root roses, deciduous fruit trees, grapes, and berries are available at nurseries. It's best to prepare planting holes before buying plants and plant them as soon as possible. Waiting increases the possibility that the "bare" roots will dry out, killing the plants.

The warm temperatures of the long summer growing season have dissipated most of the organic matter in vegetable and annual beds. January's cool weather is the right time for the physically demanding task of renewing (or creating new) planting areas. Add several inches of home-grown compost or store-bought ground bark products on top of the bed and mix thoroughly into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.

There's still time to order vegetable and flower seeds from catalogs for spring planting. Plant indoors in a light, well-drained soil mix in pots or flats as soon as you receive them. Grow in a sunny window and seedlings will be ready to set out March to May.

WATERING- Mild wintertime temperatures can cause us to forget about watering our landscape plants. Give each a long, slow soak this month if rainfall is scarce. Are winter winds common? They cause plants to lose moisture rapidly. Wilting, curling leaves, or dull coloring signal a need for immediate water.

CARE- Ammonium nitrate is soluble and becomes available to plants in our winter-cold soils, so it is the fertilizer of choice to feed actively growing plants such as winter vegetables and rye grass lawns. Later in the year, as soil temperatures warm, ammonium sulfate works fine.

PRUNING- Janurary and February are the best months to prune many plants-particularyly deciduous plants(those that drop their leaves in winter)- when they are closest to total dormancy. Set a goal to coomplete pruning chores before warm weather triggers new growth. Prune roses in late January and into February. Cut back stems, and new flowering "wood" will grow to produce blooms in March and April. Prune away dead, diseased, or crossing branches flush with the branch or trunk. Prune to thin and shape, but never remove more than 15% of brnaches at any one time. Give ornamental grasses such as fountain grass and deer grass haircuts in late January to about 6 inches above-ground. If tropical and subtropical plants (bougainvillea, citrus) are damaged by cold, wait until warm spring temperatures prompt new growth before pruning. Often stems and branches that look dead in winter may be alive and regrow.

FEATURED PLANT: DALEA

Dalea species (not to be confused with the perennial dahlia) offer a wide range of plant sizes, including ground covers, dwarfish 2 to 4-foot shrubs, and large shrubs to 5 feet high or more. Many flower during the winter period of November to January when little else is in bloom. The recent introduction of species from the Chihuahuan Desert of Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and Mexico gives us versatile plants with soft foliage effects and purple to reddish violet, pea-shaped flowers. They are also tough, accepting summer heat and Tucson's winter cold, and are low to moderate users of water. Those to look for include:

DALEA CAPITATA- golden dalea, is a ground cover to 1 ft. high, spreading to 3 ft. wide. Golden flowers bloom in fall and late spring, striking against fine textured, medium green leaves.

DALEA FRUTESCENS- black dalea, grows 3 ft. high and 5 ft. wide. Yellow-green leaves make an attractive background for its clusters of pink-purple flowers in late summer and fall. Partial leaf drop occurs in cold or drought conditions.

DALEA GREGGII-Prostrate trailing indigo bush, grows 1 1/2 ft. high and an amazing 6 to 8 ft wide. This rapidly spreading ground cover with refined gray leaves controls erosion on steep slopes and can create a soft, mounding, billowing appearance anywhere. Small purple flowers bloom during spring and fall.

GALEA LUTEA-yellow bush dalea, is a shrub 4 ft to 5 ft. high and as wide. Bright yellow flowers are attractive against the lush, deep green foliage. The plant flowers in late fall when little else is in bloom.

DALEA PULCHRA- Indigo bush, grows 3 to 5 ft. high, 6 ft. wide. Purple flowers bloom from late fall into spring, eye-catching against the refined, silvery-gray foliage. The plant's 4 to 5 ft. flowing form gives it a smoky appearance when backlit by the sun

FEBRUARY

PLANTING-Many Tucson gardeners set out tomato plants this month (Valentine's Day is a target date) with some hope and a little cold protection. This approach can pay off with earlier and more porductive yields. Short-season varieties such as "early girl" do best. Soemtimes the gambling gardener loses out to frost, but it's simple to replant. Don't push your luck and pland summer squash (such as Zucchini), melons, peppers, or eggplants yet. They are more cold-tender and need April's warmer temperatures to thrive. COld-hardy landscape plants-trees, shrubs, ground covers, and vines-can go into the ground later in the month or even into late spring.


WATERING-Rainfall and extent of warm days largely dictate watering frequency. However, cool temperatures do not mean plants require no irrigation. With our drought conditions the past few years, deep soaking landscape plantgs regularly is becoming the norm. Dig down into the soil to check for moisture if you're not sure an irrigation is needed. If dry, water well. February is also the montyh to check drip irrigation systems. Make sure timers are working and drip lines and emitters are clean and operating properly. If you flood irregate with a hose, extend and rebuild watering basins. Make each basin rim 4 to 5 inches high, and extend it so it circles each plant just beyond the dripline.

CARE
PRUNE-The dormant season is short in Tucson. January and early February are some of the best times to prune many landscape plants such as mesquites, ornamental grasses, and most salvia species. Don't prune spring-flowering plants now-wait until after flowering ceases or you'll eliminate or reduce blooms.

COLD PROTECTION-Below-freezing temperatures are possible into April. Watch nightly weather reports, and have old blankets, sheets, tarps, and the like on hand to protect citrus, succulents, bougainvillea, and other tender plants. If plants are not too large, build a framework of wood, PVC pipe, or other material to create a "tent" over the plant. The idea is to keep the ocvering material from coming into contact with the plant's foliage. Remove covering before going to work the next morning or the heat buildup may injure or kill plants.

THE NEED TO KILL WEEDS-If we are blessed with February rains, they are usually gentle and soak into the soil. This kind of rain is ideal for our landscape plants-and weed seeds, which germinate in the thusands. But here's the good news: The moist soil makes it easy to pullout winter weeds, roots and all. Doing this before they flower and set seeds will greatly reduce nex year's weed crop. However, don't drop weeks on the ground after you've yanked them. Toss them on the compost pile or in the trash. Leave them on the ground, and any seeds present will regrow the next season, continuing the cycle.

CONTROL PESTS-Inspect plants for thrips and aphids-they love to feed on tender new leaves and flower buds. Blast them off with a jet of water from the hose, or spray with a soap-and-water solution with clear water after a half hour or so. Repeat applications will probably be necessary, so check susceptible plants every few days.

FERTILIZE-Feed citrus with a citrus fertilizer if leaves are pale green and there are no signs of new growth. Rich, uniformly dark green leaves mean that the plant is doing fine and requires no supplemental nutrients.

MARCH

PLANTING:
LANDSCAPE PLANTS-If you missed getting landscape plants in the ground last October, March is the nex-best planting month. In fact, the "spring fever" that accompanies March seems to be in our bones. It's hard to resist nurseries and botanical garden plant sales around town with their offerings of fresh, healthy plants. Look for native and arid-adapted trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, perennials, and annuals.

March is also a prime month to see wildflowers such as the brightly colored African daisies, California poppies, and desert bluebells, but these were planted in the fall. Occasionally, annual wildflowers in containers can be purchased at nurseries. Plant a few, if you like, to enjoy over the next month or so. But for larger-area plantings from seed, wait until fall. Perennial wildflowers such as penstemon can be set out from containers-they'll be around to enjoy for years to come. Their flowering season is spectaculare but relatively short-lived Co-plant with another landscape plant such as red salvia so that area of the garden will have something of interest beyond spring. Wait to plant citrus or other cold-tender plants until late April, after all danger of frost has passed. If you and your newly planted plants must coexist with rabbits and squirrels, protect plants with sturdy wire-mesh cages, or they may be gone when you check on them in the morning. Young plants are tassty targets, especially during drought conditions.

WARM-SEASON VEGETABLES & HERBS- The average time for the last frost of spring is around March 20, which means some times it comes earlier, sometimes later. After the last frost, consider mixing some herbs in the vegetable plot such as oregano and mints, basil and thyme. Herbs are also excellent in containers-a wooden half-barrel is ideal. Fill with a lightweight soil mix, and plant a few favorite culinary herbs. Grow in a sunny spot outside the kitchen door so it's convenient to snip a few tasty stems and leaves to enhance dishes.

WATERING-Warmer temperatures this month require more attentive watering. Plants going into the ground in March will need water every other day or so, depending on temperature and winds. Observe the condition of plants regularly, and water beofre plants show need by off-color or wilting. Check the soil for moisture by digging down a few inches. Add a ew inches of mulch over the new plants' root area to reduce evaporation and help retain critical moisture in the root area longer. Provide established plants with long, slow irrigations.

CARE-Check plant ties on staked trees, vines, and other plants. If planting trees with stakes, remove the typical single stake that is usually tightly wrapped to the trunk. Replace with 2 or 3 stakes loosely tied about 6 inches away from the trunk, allowing it to move slightly in the wind and gain strength on its own. Remove stakes and ties as soon as a tree can stand alone- the sooner the better.

Fertilize lawns and landscape plants. Confused about the timing of fertilizer applications? This simple tip may come in handy: Give plants addition nutrients 1-2 weeks before a growth spurt is expected. March is a good time to feed plants with fertilizer high in nitrogen, such as ammonium sulfate. Feed roses with a complete rose fertilizer. Don't fertilize fruit trees (including citrus) if they're in flower, are producing new leaves, or have small developing fruit. Fertilizing now can cause the flowers or fruit to frop prematurely.

APRIL

PLANTING- Now's the time to get those heat-loving summer vegetables into the warm soil so they'll take off. Wait until soil temperatures reach 60*. April alsways seems to have a cold spell so keep a watchful eye out for cold-tender pepers, eggplants, summer squash, and even tomatoes. Have coverings on hand if temperatures threaten to drop into the low to mid 30s. Consider wire cages wrapped in heavy clear platic to protect them from the cold and wind.

PLANT CITRUS FROM CONTAINERS-A common mistake when planting citrus and many other kidns of plants is etting the root ball to deep. The planting hole should be firm to prevent settling. If the rootball settles, moisture against the trunk can encourage disease. It's also helpful to make a small moat of soil to keep moisture away from the trunk when irrigating.

Bermuda grass needs heat to establish. By mid-month, if the weather has been warm, plant hybrid Bermuda grass from sod or plugs (hybrid Bermuda grass seed is sterile). Install an irrigaiton system now if you plan to have one, and improve the soil with organic matter. Don't forget to account for the depth of the sod when planting next to a sidewalk or patio so that the grass won't grow up and over it.

WATERING

You should have decreased watering frequency and amounts last winter on your irrigaiton system timer. If so, reset it for longer, more frequent irrigations in late April to accommadate warmer temperatures. If new plants were set out this spring, check the soil around the root areas for moisture every few days. Check fall-planted plants every week. Water before plants show stress, but don't allow soil to remain constantly saturated. If rains are scant, continue to deep-soak established trees, shrubs and vines.

CARE

PESTS & DISEASES- Aphids may still be out in force, seeking new tender growth. Squash vine borers may visit your vegetable patch once squash are beginning to set a few fruit. Sudden wilting of the vine is a sign of infestation. Examine stems for inch-long white grubs. There may be several-destroy them. Plants may recover, but if the infestation is severed it is better to reseed.

FRUIT TREES- If your deciduous trees have set a good fruit crop, thin the small fruit so those remaining will reach a good eating size.

LAWNS- Grass lawns awaken from their dormancy in this month. Tidy them up with a quick mov and rake. Fertilize with ammonium sulfate, and water well to help launch the greening and growth surge coming soon.

MAY

PLANTING-It's almost a fashion statement: Petunias, violas, and pansies (cool-season annuals) are out, and warm-season annuals-periwinkle, zinnias, portunlaca, red and blue salvia, and marigolds-are in. Before replanting, renew the soil in beds and containers by adding organic amendments and ammonium sulfate at the rate of one pound for every 100 square feet. Set out seedlings of warm season veggies-eggplant, squash, peppers, and melons. Even if you planted some of these in late April, succession planting will stretch out your harvests.

WATERING-As mentioned, watering is the primary gardening activity for the next several months. Plantings of desert-adapeted plants such as acacias, Texas rangers, and penstemon this past March or April will need water about twice each week, more often in the toughest conditions. Roses, hibiscus, and citrus, among others, may need double this frequency. Observe your plants: Many will signal when they need water by their lackluster appearance. And check the soil for moisture. However, don't allow fruit-producing plants such as peach trees, citrus, and grape vines to become stressed for moisture, or plants may drop flowers and developing fruit.

CARE

MULCH-A mulch is a layer of material applied over the root area of pants. A few inches of mulch help cool the soil and reduce evaporation. A layer of almost anything helps, including gravel or stones, but organic mulches such as compost, ground bark products, and lawn clippings also decompose to improve the soil. Adding mulch in May as temperatures warm will be appreciated by your plants.

INSECT PESTS-Populations of insect pests explode when temperatures warm and plants produce tender new growth. Spider mites thrive on the undersides of leaves, sucking plant juices. Stippled yellowing leaves and spiderlike webbing are telltale signs. Wash leaves clean with water and spray infested areas with insecticidal soap.

PROTECTION-Birds and animals are likely to enjoy your harvests before you can if you fail to protect your plants. Cover fruit trees entirely with netting. A sturdy PVC-pipe framework, staked to the ground and covered completely with wire or netting, will keep most small animals out of vegetable plots. The sun can also be villain, burning the ripening fruit of tomatoes and peppers. If this has been a problem in the past, cover developing fruits with row-cover materials available at many nurseries.

FERTILIZING-If leaves of citrus are pale green, fertilize late in May with a complete citrus food. Likewise, fertilize and water roses well. Warm May temperatures bring Bermuda grass out of dormancy. Feed with complete lawn fertilizer or ammonium sulfate.

JUNE

PLANTING-June temperatures are hot, so consider holding off major planting of trees, shrubs, and perennials until September or October. Yes, planting can be successful any time, but plants need three to five times more water during summer as compared to winter. Be prepared to monitor plants closely and water frequently through the warm summer months.

PALMS-The grasslike roots of palms establish best with heat, so June and July are good months to plant new palms from container, or to trasplant existing young palms. Wait until soil temperatures warm to at least 75*. Water carefully after planting, and mulch soil to conserve moisture.

VEGETABLES-Continue seuccession planting of warm-season vegetables every three weeks or so to extend harvests. So seeds of squash and melons directly in the garden-the warm summer soil causes seeds to germinate rapidly.

WATERING

The high temperatures and low humidity typical of June weather can quickly stress plants. A daily watering patrol (morning is best) around the landscape helps you spot thirsty plants.

CARE-Prevent weed seeds from germinating. Apply a pre-emergent spray in mid- to late June before July's summer rains kick off the summer weed crop. For the weeds that do sprout, wait until the last raindrops fall after a summer storm, then yank out weeds-roots and all-when the soil is moist and the pulling is easy.


JULY

WATERING-Monsoon so soon? Typically, from the first part of July until late Septemebr, some areas of Tucson are blessed with rains from the summer storms we call monsoons. But these storms are highly localized-just a mile or two from a downpour it may be completely dry. And the rains are deceiving. Rains are often fast and furious, resulting in runoff. Moisture fails to soak into the soil to benefit plants roots. Check soil moisture to be sure. Expect to soak established trees and shrubs once or twice each month July through October. Water early in the morning so plants will have enough moisture to endure the hot day ahead.

CARE

MULCH TO EASE THE PAIN- Refresh the organic mulch you applied in May. (Winds and high temperatures can cause it to blow away and dissipate.) A layer up to 3 inches thick works well. Mulch around landscape plants, vegetable and color gardens, and over container soil. However, keep mulch away from the trunks of trees, especially citrus.

PESTS LARGE AND SMALL- July is one of the most active times of the year for pests, and July is the most common month to see Tucson's infamous Palo Verde Beetles. (They'll seem to be the size of small birds the first time you see them!) Destroy themn if you can, before they can lay their eggs at the base of Palo Verdes and other desert trees.

Inspect Plants for more typical pests at least once a week (vegetables and fruits every few days) dudring the next few months. (The idea is to identify and control pests and diseases early, before they devastate your plants) Grape-leaf skeletonizers attack grape leaves in waves throughout summer. Watch for slow-moving black moths as they fly around your vines. They want to lay their eggs on leaf undersides. Black and yellow caterpillars follow with voracious appetites for grape leaves. Clip and destroy infested leaves.

CHECK TIES ON VINES- Long hot summer days in combination with regular moisture can cause plants to grow rapidly. Check plant ties on stakes of young trees and on vines. Loosen or remove them to prevent serious damage to trunks and stems.

FEED LAWNS AND LANDSCAPE PLANTS- Regular summer waterings wash nutrients, especially nitrogen, out of plants' root zones, especially with lawns. Apply ammonium sulfate or similar high nitrogen fertilizer.

AUGUST

PLANTING-August in Arizona is essentially an extension of July. Continue to plant palms and succession-plant vegetables in desert areas. In higher-elevation regions such as Flagstaff, August's monsoon season provides and "kinder, gentler" planting time for landscape plants, moistening the soil, reducing temperatures, and increasing humidity.

WATERING-Continue regular irrigations of landscape plants. Deep-soak established plants at their dripline-an imaginary line where rain drips off the perimeter of the plant-where feeder roots are located. Container plants may need watering every day this month in low- and middle-elevation desert regions. If possible, move them to afternoon shade to give them a break from the intense sun.

BASIC CARE

FEED CITRUS TREES THIS MONTH-When applying fertilizer, incorporate it into moistened soil and then water well. (Another way of looking at it is to apply fertilizer midway thorugh irrigaiton).

DEEP US WITH WEEDS-A healthy monsoon can cause weeds to germinate in large numbers. Pull or hoe annuals before they set seed to break the cycle. Pull or dig perennial weeds, getting roots and all, to see the last of them. August in the desert is like winter in Minnesota. It's our down time, so to speak, with the exception of making usre plants are receiving adequate moisture. Use this month to gather information on recommended plants and garden ideas to put into effect when the fall planting season rolls around in September and October.

SEPTEMBER

PLANTING-In higher elevations-Flagstaff, Sedona-break out the wildflower seed. Favorites include Mexican hat, California poppies, and penstemon. Once you've planted the seeds, keep the soil moist until seedlings appear, then gradually decrease waterings as tempreatures cool and plants begin to take hold.
In Phoenix and Tucson, wait until late September or October to plant wild-flowers. Go ahead and plant cool-season vegetables-broccoli, carrots, onions, lettuce, and spinach. Mix in some coo-season herbs to spice up your culinary efforts. Sow seeds of cilantro, dill, chives, and parsley. Set out transplants of lemon grass, lemon verbena, sage and thyme. Let the September weather help you decide if it's time for major planting of annuals and landscape plants. Hot temperatures often last through September in desert reions. If this is the case, your plants will benefit by witing until October. But if this year's temperatures are moderate, plant away! Make the change from warm-season annuals to their cool-season counterparts. Renew container and garden soils by mixing in organic matter and ammonium sulfate according to product-label directions.

WATERING

September's warm temperatures require that plants continue receiving regular irrigations. Use the techniques described under July to judge when and how much to water. Later in the month, begin to add time between irrigations when watering cold-tender plants such as citrus and hibiscus. This helps harden plant tissues and reduces new tender growth that will be susceptible to winter's colder temperatures.

BASIC CARE

A gentle pruning and an application of fertilizer will encourage roses to profuce a new flush of bloom. Wait to do major pruning in January. Fertilize non-desert plants with a general-purpose fertilizer. Don't feed citrus or other cold-tender plants- to do so now will cause plants to produce new tender growth that could be damged by winter cold. Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns if you are not overseeding. Don't fertilize if you are overseeding. Encouraging the Bermuda now will challenge the establisment of the winter grass.

OCTOBER

PLANTING-Nurseries arebrimming with plants this month. Also check out botanical gardens in your area for plant sales in Octobr. The prices, selection, and the free expert advice make them bargains for newcomers and experienced gardeners alike. On hand you should find native and desert-adapted trees such as mesquites, palo verdes, ironwoods, and many kinds of acacias, plus native and adapted flowering shrubs, ground covers, vines, and perennials. Plant wildflowers now for a color show in spring. After sowing seeds in a sunny location, treat kindly with regular moisture until seddlings appear. Treat with neglect and you'll grow only weeds. Taper waterings after seedlings reach a couple of inches high and the temperatures begin to cool. Plant cool-season crops such as lettuce, peas, cabbage, carrots, broccoli, and onions. Consider, too, cool-season herbs such as parsley, dill, chamomile, and fennel. Get them going early in the month. Plants grow rapidly in the warm October weather, then slow considerable as cooler nighttime temperatures come on, November into January. Make the switch from warm-season annuals (vincas, marigolds, zinnias) to their cool-season counterparts (petunias, violas, snapdragons). Bedding plants are inexpensive and easy to plant. Even though the soil in beds or containers may look fine, renew it. Add organic matter to beds, and replace soil mixes incontainers. Top with compost if you have it.

WATERING

Drought conditions this past year likely have stressed plants much more than we realize. Even though temperatures are moderate now, continue to deep-soak established landscape plants every two weeks or so. Summer-type weather can linger well into October, so keep a close and regular eye on shallow-rooted plants such as annuals, perennials, and container plants, as well as any new plants.

In higher elevations, a tapering off of irrigation frequency should have begun in September. The goal is to slow plant growth, hardening tissues and lessening the production of new, ender stems and leaves that will be susceptible to frost damage.

BASIC CARE-In high-elevation areas, prep for winter cold. Add a layer of mulch over perenials to insulate their roots against freezing temperatures. Cease fertilizing most landscape plants to avoid encouraging new, tender, cold-susceptible growth. If Bermuda grass has invaded any garden spots where it is not wanted, October is the last chance to apply a systemic herbicide. It will kill the Bermuda only while it is actively growing.

NOVEMBER

PLANTING-Everything going on planting-wise in October can continue into November. Succession-plant cool-season' vegetables planted in October to stretch out harvests into spring. But beware, the grace period for mild, balmy weather often ends rather abruptly mid-moth. Phoenix and Yuma have a little more leeway, with growing seasons of more than 300 days. In Tucson, the fall weather is sweet but often much too short, as Indian summer transforms quickly into winter! So go ahead and sneak in those wildflowers and get those landscape plants in the ground-but planting in November is a case of "the sooner the better".

WATERING

Continue tapering irrigation to harden plant tissues. Irrigate high-water-use plants once every week, less if weather is cool. Beginning this month, change timers on irrigation systems to reflect the decreasing need for water.

BASIC CARE

Get ready, 'cause here it comes. The cold, that is. Ready means more than shaking the wrinkles out of your winter jacket. It means having old blankets, sheets, shower curtains, and the like at the ready when frost comes knockin. Freezing temps can come on without much warning, so have these materials gathered beforehand to prevent a latenigh rush for covers. If possible, create a simple frame of wood or PVC pipe to hold covers away from plant foliage. Remove in the morning before daytime temperatures increase. Your local weather news will probably advise you as to when to cover cold-tender plants such as bougainvillea, citrus, and hibiscus. Be aware that if the cold snap is sudden and follows mild weather, it will be more destructive than if temperatures have gradually cooled in fall. Fertilize winter vegetables with ammonium nitrate fertilizer November through December. Sprinkle small amounts on the soil around their roots and water well.

DECEMBER

PLANTING-Not much on the December planting agenda. Continue to succession-plant cool-season crops to extend harvest. Condidates include radishes, lettuce, peas, carrots, and broccoli. Plant winter annuals in cotainers. Locate in a sunny spot and water regularly.

WATERING-Temperatures can vary considerably in low and intermediate deserts this month. If it's on the cool side, reduce watering to once a month or less. If it feels like a reprise of summer, deep water established palnts a couple of times each month until spring.

BASIC CARE-In low and intermediate deserts, a hard freeze will kill top growth of tender plants such as red bird of paradise and lantan. The roots are insulated in the soil, though, so the plant is alive despite its dead apprearance and will regrow come spring. You can prune the dead branches back now to neaten up the landscape, but sometimes the dead-looking branches are alive and will regrow. Better to wait till after last frost has passed in spring to see the true extent of the damage. Continue fertilizing vegetables with ammonium nitrate through December. Add leaves and garden clippings to the compost pile. Don't have one? Find an out-of-the-way corner of the landscape, and make one from old shipping pallets or inexpensive concrete block. Or simply start by placing gardening refuse in a pile. As the leaves, prunings, grass clippings, and other materials decompose, the pile shrinks, becoming gardening gold-compost. Use it as mulch to improve planting beds, or add it to container soil mixes.


PALO VERDES (CERCIDIUM SPECIES)

You can't help but notice them all over Tucson late in our spring season-the billowing yellow flowers transform trees into giant bouquets. The palo verdes bless us with their flowers no matter how scant our winter and spring rains. Each species has distinctive characteristics of size, structure, and growth rate that make them easy to identify. However, species interbreed to produce a wide variety of forms.

Cercidium Floridum, or blue palo verde, is native to the Sonoran Desert in Arizona. It grows 35 ft. high and 30 ft. wide. It might well be the most colorful of all desert trees. The strong, multitrunk form with spreading canopy provides filtered shade. If stressed for moisture, leaves may be absent most of the year. Luxuriant golden-yellow flowers in March and April compensate for bareness. Bark on young trees is bluish green, which becomes darker on the amin trunk as trees age.

Cercidium hybrid "Desert Museum" is a hybrid palo verde discovered in 1984 at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. It combines the best qualities of Parkinsonia Aculeata, C. Floridum, and C. Microphyllum. Trees are thornless, have few seed-pods, and produce little litter. They grow rapidly, reaching 20 ft. high in 5 years or less. Yellow flowers are larger than flowers of any of its 3 relatives and bloom mid-march-May. More flowers follow in June and August. Growth pattern is sturdy and upright, requiring little pruning or staking.

Cercidium Microphyllum, little leaf palo verde or foothill palo verde, is native to Arizona and Baja California. Bark, stems, and leaves are yellow-green. In cold or drought, leaflets drop. Greenish-yellow flowers appear April-May. Slow growing, but growth rate accelerates with added moisture. Twiggy growth and low canopy provide shelter for wildlife.

Cercidium Praecox, Sonoran palo verde, is native to South America and the Sonoran Desert in Mexico. It grows 15-30 ft. high with an equal spread. This tree is known for its distinctive, sculptural growth, bright green trunks, and long, wispy branches. Branches are typically more thorny than those of other palo verdes. This variety grows slowly into a disciplined, 15-30 ft. canopy. Even as trees age, the bark on trunks and branches remains green. Vivid yellow flower clusters along angular branches add color excitement in April and May.

TUCSON NATIVES
The native plants found in the foothills surrounding Tucson include some of the signature plants of the Sonoran Desert. Together, they make a harmonious grouping with similar water needs that looks instantly natural. The dominant tree of the foothills is the foothill palo verde (Parkinsonia Microphylla), a silhouette in chartreuse if there ever was one.

The stately saguaro is the focal point of any foothills garden. Seed-frown young saguaros can be found at cactus nurseries and can mimic nature if planted beneath the protective boughs of a palo verde. Small shrubs like brittlebush and fairy duster thrive on the sandy and rocky soils of the foothills, Other seasonal perennial flowers include globe mallow, bahia and desert zinnia. At the end of summer, plant perennials along with seeds of annual wildflowers like gold oppy, owl clover and lupine. A foothills grouping is a haven for birds and butterflies.

Valley dwellers can use these plants successfully in sunny locations with good drainage and a mulch of decomposed granite and rock. A foothills grouping will eventually thrive on rainfall, but in these droughty years, watering may be needed every few months. Remember that brand new plants will need watering more often until they get established.

PLANTS FOR HUMMINGBIRDS



You may already have some great plants in the garden to attract hummingbirds (desert willow, red bird of paradise, purple trailing lantana and verbena). Hummers tend to favor tubular flowers in the red to violet range, enjoying the nectar in exchange for pollinating the flowers.

I've seen young birds try to crowd two-to-a-blossom on the orange trumpet vine. If you prefer pink, try Podranea Ricasoliana. Both vines bloom profusely until frost.

Summer shrubs for hummers include the very floriferous Tecoma "Gold Star" as well as the familiar yellow bells. These shrubs can easily live a season or two in a big pot. Try Salvia Greggii in any color but white; Baja fairy duster, Lavender Spice, and the foutainy russelia.

Perennials for pots include Texas Salvia, Mexican Bush Sage, Four o-clocks and batfaced Cuphea. Summer rains will cause some insects to bloom, too. About half of the hummingbird's diet is insects, so they'll help with that too.


CONTACT ME

Contact me for all of your Tucson Real Estate needs.

Julie Nellis, ABR, ASR, GRI, e-Pro
Associate Broker
Long Realty
1890 E. River Rd
Tucson AZ, 85718
520-918-3843